The Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography in Ebisu.
I went to see the exhibit "The Pencil of Nature", which traces the history of photography, from calotypes to daguerreotypes to color photos (they existed in crude form in the 1840s!), to Kodak's color prints. Unfortunately, the explanations were only in Japanese (an English summary can be read here), and actual exhibit didn't probe the potentially exciting question posed: What is photography? It was definitely a missed opportunity for some deeper analysis.
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